Layering knitwear, for him and for her

Knitwear is the most comfortable part of a winter wardrobe and the easiest to get wrong. Too many layers of the same weight look lumpy; the wrong order traps heat in the wrong places. The principle is simple: fine against the skin, heavier on top, and change the texture with each layer.

Weight and texture

A fine knit, such as a thin crew-neck or a long-sleeve top, sits close to the body and goes underneath. A mid-weight cardigan or sweater is the middle layer. Chunky ribbed and cable knits are outer layers in their own right; on a mild day they replace a jacket. When you layer, change the texture each time: smooth under ribbed, ribbed under fluffy. The contrast is what makes it look intentional rather than bundled.

The cardigan, worn properly

A cardigan worn open adds a long vertical line that lengthens the body. Buttoned, it becomes a sweater with a neat V or crew neckline. For men, a button-up cardigan over a shirt is a softer alternative to a blazer and works for most offices. For women, an open-front cardigan over a slip dress or with wide-leg trousers is relaxed but finished.

Under a coat

Check the sleeves first. A chunky knit under a fitted coat will bunch at the elbow and pull the coat out of shape. Under fitted coats, wear a fine knit; under oversized and dropped-shoulder coats, wear whatever you like. Roll-necks are the cleanest choice under stand-collar coats because the two necklines echo each other.

A knit capsule

• One fine roll-neck in black or cream.
• One chunky ribbed or cable cardigan in a neutral.
• One soft, fluffy pullover for texture.
• One patterned or striped knit for colour.

Care

Fold knitwear, never hang it: hangers stretch the shoulders. Wash it rarely, on a cool wool cycle or by hand, and dry it flat on a towel, reshaping it while damp. Treat pilling early with a fabric comb. Air knits between wears just as you would a coat.

Fine against the skin, heavier on top, and a change of texture with each layer.