The men's overcoat: fit, length and collar
How a good overcoat should fit across the shoulder, where it should end and which collar suits what you wear.
· 8 minute read
An overcoat goes over everything else you own: a suit, a knit, a hoodie. That is why its fit has to be judged with the thickest thing you will wear under it. This guide covers how to check the fit in two minutes, how to choose a length and how each collar style changes the character of the coat.
The two-minute fit check
- Shoulders: the seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder or just beyond it. Dents in the sleeve below the seam mean it is too narrow.
- Chest: buttoned over a jumper, the fronts should lie flat with no pulling into an X around the buttons.
- Sleeves: they should cover the shirt cuff completely and end around the base of the thumb.
- Movement: reach forward as if to drive. If the back pulls tight across the shoulder blades, size up.
Our men's coats are sized in European chest sizes from 46 to 60. If you are between sizes and plan to wear chunky knits underneath, choose the larger one. Slim-fit coats are cut closer at the waist; if you prefer a relaxed shape, size up once.
Length
A coat that ends just above the knee is the most versatile: long enough to cover a suit jacket, short enough to wear with jeans and trainers. Knee-length and below is more formal and warmer, best with tailoring. Peacoats and short double-breasted coats end at the hip; they are naval in origin and pair naturally with knitwear and denim.
Collars, and what they say
The stand collar is the most modern: a short band that rises around the neck with no lapel. It looks clean and works over a roll-neck. The shawl collar is a continuous rounded lapel, softer and a little more relaxed. Notched lapels are the classic tailored option. A faux fur collar adds warmth and a touch of the 1970s, and turns a plain coat into the most noticeable thing you own.
Colour
If you own one coat, choose navy, charcoal or camel. Navy and charcoal go with everything and hide wear. Camel is warmer and more distinctive, and looks best with blue, grey and white. Once you have a neutral coat, a second in olive, a brown houndstooth or a bold plaid adds character without being difficult to wear.
Judge the fit with your thickest jumper on. That is the coat you will be wearing in January.
Three ways to wear it
- With tailoring: camel overcoat, navy suit, white shirt, brown leather shoes.
- With knitwear: olive overcoat, cream ribbed cardigan, straight jeans, white trainers.
- Weekend: houndstooth peacoat, grey hoodie, dark denim, leather boots.
